Fūl Medames – dried fava bean stew

The cultivation of the fava bean originates in the fertile crescent in the Middle East, an area of land encompassing the Nile valley and Mesopotamia. It reached British tables in the Iron Age and became a main part of the British diet, provided a primary source of protein that could be harvested and stored year-round.
However, the agricultural revolution saw radical changes in the British diet and it wasn’t long before the fava bean fell out of fashion as people had a greater access to more meat and dairy. Beans became the stigmatised food of the poor and by the 18th century, the fava bean was almost completely off the menu in the UK and, sadly, has remained there since. Even though our climate has ideal growing conditions, the only place I could find a packet of these beans was in an Instanbul supermarket.
Fortunately, Ful Medames, a dish made from stewed and dried fava beans has remained a staple in many countries. In Ethiopia, it is served with hot green peppers, in the Yemen, a soupy, almost puréed concoction with tomatoes and in Syria, it is topped liberally with their famous sanguine chillies.
But my favourite ful comes from Egypt, where it's a power breakfast on the streets of Cairo and Giza. The ful vendors stew dried favas day and night until the beans are fall-apart soft, then they add cumin, lemon, plenty of olive oil and parsley to make a creamy, spicy and filling dish. Serve warm with tomato and/or egg, pickled chilli, cheese and a flatbread. #GoldenApron23
Fūl Medames – dried fava bean stew
The cultivation of the fava bean originates in the fertile crescent in the Middle East, an area of land encompassing the Nile valley and Mesopotamia. It reached British tables in the Iron Age and became a main part of the British diet, provided a primary source of protein that could be harvested and stored year-round.
However, the agricultural revolution saw radical changes in the British diet and it wasn’t long before the fava bean fell out of fashion as people had a greater access to more meat and dairy. Beans became the stigmatised food of the poor and by the 18th century, the fava bean was almost completely off the menu in the UK and, sadly, has remained there since. Even though our climate has ideal growing conditions, the only place I could find a packet of these beans was in an Instanbul supermarket.
Fortunately, Ful Medames, a dish made from stewed and dried fava beans has remained a staple in many countries. In Ethiopia, it is served with hot green peppers, in the Yemen, a soupy, almost puréed concoction with tomatoes and in Syria, it is topped liberally with their famous sanguine chillies.
But my favourite ful comes from Egypt, where it's a power breakfast on the streets of Cairo and Giza. The ful vendors stew dried favas day and night until the beans are fall-apart soft, then they add cumin, lemon, plenty of olive oil and parsley to make a creamy, spicy and filling dish. Serve warm with tomato and/or egg, pickled chilli, cheese and a flatbread. #GoldenApron23
Steps
- 1
Soak the dry fava beans in 2 cups of water overnight – the beans will expand in size. Drain and discard the water. Place the beans in a large pot or saucepan and add 5 cups of water. Bring them to a boil, partly over and let simmer for 45 minutes to 1 hour until the beans are fully cooked. Drain and discard the water. If you wish, peel the beans.
- 2
In a skillet, add the fava beans and ½ cup water. Stir over medium-high heat. Season with salt and cumin and mash lightly leaving some beans whole. In a pestle and mortar smash the chilli with the garlic then add the lemon juice.
- 3
Add the garlic, chilli and lemon juice to the fava beans. Place in a large dish or 4 individual dishes and drizzle with extra virgin olive oil. Top with parsley and tomato and any of the optional toppings and serve with warm flatbread.
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