The night before, make the starter. The * is because it's hard to measure such a small amount of yeast. What I did was weigh out the total amount (3 grams) and use a little less than half.

Mix everything together until you have a smooth dough—start with a spoon, then use your hands. Cover with plastic wrap and let it ferment overnight.

Since it's winter, I left it at room temperature in the kitchen instead of the fridge.

Knead until the dough reaches the windowpane stage. This means you can stretch a piece of dough between your fingers until it's almost transparent without tearing.

Once the dough is ready, shape it into a ball and place it in a greased bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and let it rise for about 6 hours. For example, I finished kneading at 11 a.m. and let it rise until 5 p.m.

At this point, divide the dough in half to make two ensaimadas.

For each one, roll the dough into a long strip about 12 inches by 2 1/2 inches wide (30 cm by 6-7 cm) and spread with lard.

Spread plenty of lard all over the surface. If you want to fill it with 'cabello de ángel' (angel hair pumpkin jam), add a strip along the bottom edge now.

Let the rolled dough rest again so you can stretch it further—about 3 hours.

After resting, gently stretch the cylinder with both hands.

Place the tray (you'll need two trays, one for each ensaimada) in the turned-off oven and let it rise slowly.

After about 23 hours, take the trays out of the oven and preheat to 350°F (180°C).

I like to dust them with powdered sugar while they're still warm so it sticks a bit, then dust again before serving.

As always, you can eat them as is or fill them with whatever you like. I love them with whipped cream.