Add pork to soup pot and slowly render fat, turn up heat and crisp. Remove from pot and set aside. Add butter to pot and saute the onions and celery until partially soft.

Stir in thyme and bay leaves. Add stock and potatoes and salt and pepper to taste. You may need to add water to cover the potatoes. Turn up the heat and cover the pot. Boil until potatoes are soft outside but still have some resistance in the center. Take a few pieces and crush them against the side of the pot. This will help thicken the chowder.

Taste and season aggressively with salt and pepper now so that you don't have to stir much once fish is added. Add the fish and turn the heat to low. Cook about five minutes and then stir in cream. Cook until hot. Add reserved pork and let sit for 10 minutes for flavors to meld. Garnish with chives/scallions and serve.