First, thoroughly clean and wash the spinach. Boil water in a pan, add the sugar to help retain the spinach’s color, then add the spinach and cook until just wilted. In another pan, heat the oil and add the paneer cubes. Fry the paneer for 15 to 20 seconds, turning to cook all sides, then remove. This keeps the paneer soft; over-frying will make it chewy. In the same oil, add finely chopped garlic and sauté for 1 to 2 minutes without letting it brown. Add finely chopped onions.

Fry the onions until golden brown. After boiling the spinach, immediately transfer it to a bowl of water with ice cubes to stop the cooking and preserve the color. Coarsely blend the spinach, set aside 2 tablespoons, then blend the remaining spinach with 2 or 3 ice cubes to make a fine paste. Once the onions are golden, add all the spices and fry. Add 1 tablespoon chickpea flour and sauté well. Add the coarsely blended spinach and fry thoroughly—this gives the gravy its signature dhaba-style flavor. In a bowl, mix the heavy cream and milk together.

Add the cream and milk mixture to the pan and mix well. Finally, add the spinach paste and paneer cubes. Add more milk or water as needed to adjust the gravy consistency. Once it comes to a boil, add garam masala, mix, and turn off the heat. In a separate frying pan, heat the ghee, then add 5 to 6 finely chopped garlic cloves and cumin seeds. Pour this tempering over the spinach paneer. Your hot, dhaba-style garlic spinach paneer is ready to serve.