Make the Pad Thai sauce: Mix all ingredients in equal parts except for chili sauce—add just a little of that. Taste and adjust to your liking. Bring to a boil until dissolved, add water, then set aside.

Heat plenty of oil in a pan until very hot. Add the fresh shrimp and fry until they just start to turn pink. Remove from the pan before fully cooked.

Pour out excess oil, then add shallots and preserved radish. Stir-fry until translucent. Add the fresh shrimp, fried tofu, rice noodles, and Pad Thai sauce. Add a little water and toss until the noodles are cooked and the liquid is absorbed.

Add dried shrimp, bean sprouts, and garlic chives. Stir until combined. Remove from heat and wrap in a thin omelet. Top with crispy pork cracklings, fried garlic, crispy wonton wrappers, crushed peanuts, and chili powder.