Use a combination of two flours: high-gluten flour for a chewy texture and bread flour for a lighter, softer bread.

Mix the wet ingredients: milk and egg. Place the dry ingredients in the mixing bowl, keeping the yeast and salt separate. With the mixer running, slowly pour in the milk and egg mixture.

Knead for 5 minutes until the dough comes together, then add the butter and knead for another 10 minutes.

Cover and let the dough rise for 1 hour. Punch down the dough and shape into balls, each about 2 oz (60 grams). Roll each ball into an oval, fold lengthwise, then roll again into a long oval, making one end thicker.

Roll up the dough, pinching the seams to seal. Flip over. Shape both ends to a point with your hands. (Or use the traditional Vietnamese shaping method.)

Brush the rolls with the egg yolk and milk mixture. Score a 1/2-inch (1 cm) deep line down the center with a sharp blade or bread scoring knife, and pipe butter into the cut. Sprinkle with sugar.

Bake for 12–15 minutes, depending on your oven, on the middle rack with top and bottom heat, no fan. Remove from the oven immediately and brush with butter (you can mix in up to half margarine for a flavor familiar in Vietnamese baking).