Blasphemous Franco-South Tyrolean Tagliolini alla Carbonara

A troublemaking French heretic invites two Italian heretics to lunch. They arrive to find their host grinning, a 25 oz (750 ml) bottle of tripel beer, and Bauhaus's 'Mask' playing in the background. "Let's do something outrageous and post it online to stir things up," says the snail-eater. "Remember last year when a Frenchman posted a carbonara with cream? They say the controversy still hasn't died down," replies one of the Italians, who, as it happens, is from Lazio. "I've got an idea," exclaims the second Italian, a crypto-anarchist from Bolzano. "Instead of messing with just one tradition, why not three?" The look they exchange says it all, except for two words: "To the stove!"
Blasphemous Franco-South Tyrolean Tagliolini alla Carbonara
A troublemaking French heretic invites two Italian heretics to lunch. They arrive to find their host grinning, a 25 oz (750 ml) bottle of tripel beer, and Bauhaus's 'Mask' playing in the background. "Let's do something outrageous and post it online to stir things up," says the snail-eater. "Remember last year when a Frenchman posted a carbonara with cream? They say the controversy still hasn't died down," replies one of the Italians, who, as it happens, is from Lazio. "I've got an idea," exclaims the second Italian, a crypto-anarchist from Bolzano. "Instead of messing with just one tradition, why not three?" The look they exchange says it all, except for two words: "To the stove!"
Cooking Instructions
- 1
Once you've gathered all the ingredients for this delicious dish, start by preparing the sauté. Wash the leek thoroughly and chop it up, including the green parts, which are usually discarded but add flavor, though they're a bit fibrous—just cook them a bit longer to soften. Do the same with the cabbage. Since these two are the crunchiest, add them first to a pan with a drizzle of olive oil.
- 2
The pasta cooking water will serve a double purpose: it becomes a broth by adding the prosciutto rind and the root end of the leek. Use this water to keep the sauté moist, adding the rind to the pan as well. In both cases, remove everything when you add the pasta and the rest of the sauce to the serving dishes.
- 3
While the first part of the sauté softens, move on to the rest. Mince the garlic, making sure to remove the germ, and dice the pancetta and speck (don't buy them pre-diced—they cost more and aren't as tasty as when cut fresh from the deli). Add everything to the pan and cook over low heat, keeping it moist with the cooking broth.
- 4
As the sauté flavors meld with the speck, pancetta, and garlic, and the pasta is cooking, it's time to prepare the sauce. Grate the Pecorino Romano (or Parmesan, or a mix of both, to your taste) and add it to the eggs, mixing until you get a creamy texture. Season with a bit of pepper.
- 5
A couple of minutes before adding the sauce, combine the pasta with the sauté and mix well, keeping the mixture moist with some cooking water or a pat of butter. Then, off the heat, stir in the egg and cheese mixture, and plate the pasta. If you have it, finish with a drizzle of truffle oil (or classic extra-virgin olive oil).
- 6
Finish with a generous grating of Pecorino Romano (or Parmesan, or salted ricotta) and a sprinkle of pepper. Now, think about how many traditions you've broken, grab your fork, and enjoy!
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