Casa Labra-Style Soldaditos de Pavía

Soldaditos de Pavía are a classic appetizer from Madrid and some parts of Andalusia, made of battered and fried cod served with red pepper. Some say they were first created in a tavern on Calle de Tetuán in Madrid. They're often served cold in some bars and taverns, usually with wine.
Casa Labra is a bar-restaurant in Madrid near Puerta del Sol (Calle de Tetuán, 12), open since 1860. It's famous for being the site where the Spanish Socialist Workers' Party was founded by Pablo Iglesias on May 2, 1879, as commemorated by a plaque inside. At Casa Labra, you can enjoy fried cod or tuna with tomato as tapas, ordered at a special counter, while drinks are ordered at the bar. The place features a large period mirror with a sign that says, "Those who drink well do what they should," reminding customers to pay for what they consume. The decor preserves its old-time charm, and there's an adjacent restaurant where you can try Madrid specialties. Since the early 2000s, there's also an outdoor terrace so you don't have to eat standing up.
We were 9 people and enjoyed these as a tapa along with other dishes, but we wished we had more. This recipe is ideal for 4 people.
Casa Labra-Style Soldaditos de Pavía
Soldaditos de Pavía are a classic appetizer from Madrid and some parts of Andalusia, made of battered and fried cod served with red pepper. Some say they were first created in a tavern on Calle de Tetuán in Madrid. They're often served cold in some bars and taverns, usually with wine.
Casa Labra is a bar-restaurant in Madrid near Puerta del Sol (Calle de Tetuán, 12), open since 1860. It's famous for being the site where the Spanish Socialist Workers' Party was founded by Pablo Iglesias on May 2, 1879, as commemorated by a plaque inside. At Casa Labra, you can enjoy fried cod or tuna with tomato as tapas, ordered at a special counter, while drinks are ordered at the bar. The place features a large period mirror with a sign that says, "Those who drink well do what they should," reminding customers to pay for what they consume. The decor preserves its old-time charm, and there's an adjacent restaurant where you can try Madrid specialties. Since the early 2000s, there's also an outdoor terrace so you don't have to eat standing up.
We were 9 people and enjoyed these as a tapa along with other dishes, but we wished we had more. This recipe is ideal for 4 people.
Steps
- 1
First, sift some flour onto a plate to avoid lumps. Then, prepare the batter by mixing whole milk, all-purpose flour, salt, and baking soda. Stir until you have a thick, smooth batter.
- 2
Dredge the pieces of desalted cod (they can be irregular in shape) in the flour, shaking off any excess. Then dip them into the batter, coating them well.
- 3
Heat a generous amount of olive oil in a skillet over high heat. Test the temperature by dropping in a small piece; when it bubbles, add the rest. Don't overcrowd the pan.
- 4
When the edges start to turn golden, flip the pieces to cook the other side. Don't overcook them. Once they're golden all over, remove them and place on paper towels to drain excess oil. Taste and adjust salt if needed.
- 5
Arrange the cod pieces as you like, always topping them with strips of red pepper. I used piquillo peppers, which I love. The red pepper is used to mimic the stripes on soldiers' uniforms.
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