Set aside the peeled prawns/shrimp, and return the shells to the pan containing the water. Add the celery, if you have it, and a bay leaf, then boil the liquid until it has reduced to about 100ml/31/2fl oz/scant ½ cup.

Meanwhile, prepare all the other ingredients – once you start cooking the risotto you can’t wander off. In a large pan, gently sauté the sliced onion (or shallot) in half the butter for about 15 minutes, until translucent and soft. Make sure they don’t brown at all.

To prepare the asparagus, bend the stalks to remove the woody bottom part – it should break at the right point. Cut off the heads, then slice the stalks into rounds. Fry the asparagus heads in 5ml/1 tsp of the remaining butter for 1 minute, until just tender.

Add the rice to the pan containing the onions and cook, stirring, until the rice is shiny. Pour in the wine and simmer, still stirring, until it has totally evaporated.

Start to add the hot stock, a ladleful at a time, stirring continuously. When each ladleful is absorbed, add the next. This will take about 20–30 minutes in total, until the rice is cooked al dente. Halfway through this process, add the sliced asparagus stalks.

When the rice is cooked, the risotto should still be slightly soupy – test by drawing draw the spoon through it and looking for a wake that holds for a few seconds.

When you are there, add the prawns/shrimp, chilli, lemon juice and zest, the remaining butter and a handful of Parmesan. Stir through, on the heat, adding another half-ladle of stock if needed to keep the creamy texture.

Let the risotto stand for a few minutes, then ladle on to warmed plates, top with the asparagus heads, a scattering of fresh dill, and a little more Parmesan. Serve with lemon wedges for squeezing over.