Clean the fish thoroughly with rice wine and ginger, then rub with salt. Rinse well, then marinate with a little seasoning powder, MSG, and fish sauce.

Cut the pork belly into large 1 1/4-inch (3x3 cm) cubes. Rinse, then marinate with sugar, seasoning powder, oyster sauce, MSG, a little pepper, and fish sauce. Mix well, then drizzle with 2 teaspoons of cooking oil. Use 1 teaspoon of each seasoning for marinating.

Slice the galangal and ginger. (Layer the slices on the bottom of the pot.)

This step is key for the aroma of the braised fish. Add 1 tablespoon of cooking oil to a pan. When hot, add the garlic, shallots (do not crush), ginger, galangal, and lightly crushed chili peppers. Sauté for about 3 minutes until fragrant. Ginger enhances the galangal’s flavor and makes the fish more aromatic.

Make the caramel sauce: For the above amount, use 3 tablespoons sugar. Caramelize the sugar with 2 tablespoons water. When it turns a deep amber color, add 1 cup (250 ml) hot water (be careful, as the caramel is very hot).

Layer half of the galangal, ginger, chili, garlic, and shallots on the bottom of the pot. Next, add the pork belly, then the fish, then another layer of the galangal and aromatics, then fish, then pork. Place the pork on top so the fat melts down, making the fish rich, flavorful, and glossy.

Simmer the dish for about 3 to 4 hours for best results. It’s best to cook over a wood or charcoal stove for convenience and flavor. For the first hour, let it boil vigorously. Skim off any foam. Then, partially cover the pot, leaving about 1/3 open. After more than 2 hours, gently turn the pork and fish on top for even color and tenderness. After 3 hours, close the lid and let it simmer until the charcoal burns out. I used one charcoal briquette for this pot of fish.