Paccheri al Ragù Genovese

Genovese is a classic dish from Neapolitan cuisine—a true staple among Neapolitan dishes. There are many stories about its origins. One dates back to the 15th century, during the Aragonese period, and says it was invented by a Neapolitan cook named Genovese or nicknamed 'o’ genovese.' Another story claims it was created by Neapolitan sailors in the port of Genoa. Yet another says it was introduced to Naples in the 1600s by Genoese cooks working in Naples during the Aragonese era, who made meat and onion sauces to serve with pasta.
The secret to an authentic Genovese, like all Neapolitan ragù, is slow cooking—it should simmer for at least 4 to 8 hours over very low heat. The longer it cooks, the better and darker it becomes. The onions should break down completely, creating a thick, caramelized sauce.
Genovese is usually made as a Sunday dish, with preparation starting Saturday afternoon because of the long cooking time. It cooks for the first 4 hours, then continues for another 2–4 hours on Sunday morning until lunchtime.
Short pasta is preferred, especially ziti broken in half (in Naples, they say the best pasta for ragù is ziti), but paccheri, mezzanelli, maltagliati, pennoni, penne, candele, or even bucatini work well too.
Paccheri al Ragù Genovese
Genovese is a classic dish from Neapolitan cuisine—a true staple among Neapolitan dishes. There are many stories about its origins. One dates back to the 15th century, during the Aragonese period, and says it was invented by a Neapolitan cook named Genovese or nicknamed 'o’ genovese.' Another story claims it was created by Neapolitan sailors in the port of Genoa. Yet another says it was introduced to Naples in the 1600s by Genoese cooks working in Naples during the Aragonese era, who made meat and onion sauces to serve with pasta.
The secret to an authentic Genovese, like all Neapolitan ragù, is slow cooking—it should simmer for at least 4 to 8 hours over very low heat. The longer it cooks, the better and darker it becomes. The onions should break down completely, creating a thick, caramelized sauce.
Genovese is usually made as a Sunday dish, with preparation starting Saturday afternoon because of the long cooking time. It cooks for the first 4 hours, then continues for another 2–4 hours on Sunday morning until lunchtime.
Short pasta is preferred, especially ziti broken in half (in Naples, they say the best pasta for ragù is ziti), but paccheri, mezzanelli, maltagliati, pennoni, penne, candele, or even bucatini work well too.
Steps
- 1
Chop the carrot and celery into small pieces. Cut the cherry tomatoes in half. Roughly chop the onions. In a large pot, add 1 tablespoon of lard and let it melt with 3 tablespoons of olive oil. Add the prosciutto or pancetta and cook for a few minutes until it releases its fat.
- 2
Add the chopped celery and carrot and sauté briefly. Add the meat and brown it on all sides. Season with a little pepper, then add the wine and let it evaporate over high heat. Add the tomatoes to the pot, season with salt, and cook for 10 minutes. Add the onions, cover the pot, and reduce the heat to very low.
- 3
Let the Genovese sauce cook for 6 to 8 hours over very low heat, so nothing burns. The onions should break down completely and turn a deep brown color, as in true Genovese ragù. You shouldn't need to add water or broth, as the onions release plenty of liquid, but if it gets too dry or starts to stick, add a little hot water or vegetable broth.
- 4
About 1 hour before it's done, add a Parmesan rind if you like. Cook the pasta until al dente, then return it to the pot and add a few ladles of the sauce. Mix well to coat the pasta. Serve with more Genovese sauce, a sprinkle of grated Parmesan and Pecorino cheese, and a few fresh bay leaves or basil. Add pepper to taste.
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